Fuzhou (30 July 2024) - 三坊七巷 (Three Lanes and Seven Alleys)

Our day began with a leisurely stroll from our hotel to one of Fuzhou's most iconic historical sites, 三坊七巷 (Three Lanes and Seven Alleys). This area is not just a collection of old buildings but a living museum of Fuzhou's rich cultural and architectural history, dating back to the Tang and Song dynasties.

The name "三坊七巷" refers to the three lanes and seven alleys that make up this area. These lanes and alleys have been the residence of many influential figures throughout Chinese history, particularly during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The area was originally the home of Fuzhou's elite, including scholars, government officials, and successful merchants. Over time, these families constructed elaborate homes, many of which have been preserved or restored, offering a glimpse into the life of Fuzhou's upper class centuries ago.

The three lanes, known as Yijin Lane, Wenru Lane, and Guanglu Lane, and the seven alleys, Yangqiao Alley, Langguan Alley, Anmin Alley, Huangxiang Alley, Gongxiang Alley, Jibi Alley, and Ta Alley, are lined with traditional Ming and Qing dynasty-style residences. These homes are characterized by their elegant wooden structures, intricate carvings, and spacious courtyards. Walking through the area, you can almost feel the history seeping through the walls.

No visit to 三坊七巷 would be complete without sampling some of the local delicacies. We made sure to try the famous Fuzhou fishball from Yong He, a renowned eatery in the area. The fishballs were a perfect blend of tenderness and flavor, filled with a savory pork mixture that melted in your mouth. The delicate balance of textures and flavors made it clear why this dish is so beloved by locals and visitors alike.

As the day heated up, we found ourselves seeking refuge from the sweltering weather. Surprisingly, we found it in the form of a beautifully restored Starbucks. This Starbucks is unlike any other; it’s housed in a building that perfectly blends modern comforts with traditional architecture. The building resembles an old teahouse, with wooden beams, lattice windows, and a serene courtyard where you can enjoy your coffee surrounded by history. The contrast between the modern café and the ancient surroundings made our visit even more memorable, offering a unique place to relax while soaking in the ambiance of 三坊七巷.

After our break, we continued our exploration of the area, visiting several of the historic homes that have been converted into small museums. Each house tells a different story, showcasing the life, culture, and history of Fuzhou's past residents. These museums are carefully curated, with exhibits ranging from traditional Fuzhou crafts and artifacts to detailed displays of the lives of the famous figures who once lived there.

We also visited some of the prominent officials houses

Zhangzhou (26 to 29 July) – 东山岛 (Dongshan Island)

After our time in Zhangzhou, we set our sights on 东山岛 (Dongshan Island), the second-largest island in Fujian Province, situated at the southern tip. Our journey began with some uncertainty as Typhoon Gamei had just passed by Taiwan and was heading towards Fujian Province. With rain pouring down and long-distance trains suspended, luckily, we had prebooked our seats on a long-distance bus to the island, unsure if it was wise to proceed. Ultimately, we decided that it should be safe to go ahead, and thankfully, the journey to the island was safe.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted by steady rain, and many attractions were temporarily closed due to the typhoon's impact. Despite the weather, we checked into our hotel (东山锦宿), discovering we were the only guests. This fortuitous situation led to a complimentary room upgrade, which was a pleasant surprise. Eager to explore despite the rain, we ventured out for a short walk around the neighbourhood but turn back soon due to the rain and strong winds. 

The next day, the rain cleared, allowing us to explore Dongshan Island's stunning landscapes and unique attractions. Our first stop was the famous 双面海 (Shuang Mian Hai) a fascinating natural phenomenon where a narrow land bridge becomes visible during low tides, connecting two parts of the island. Unfortunately, due to the strong waves from the lingering winds and intermittent rainfall, we couldn't walk onto the land bridge. Nevertheless, we tried to imagine sight of the twin seas on either side

We then visited 彩蝶湾 (Caidie Bay), known for its picturesque scenery and vibrant butterfly-shaped coastline. The bay is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike, offering stunning views of the azure waters and rocky shores. Our exploration continued with visits to 马銮湾 (Maluan Bay) with its calm waters and sandy beaches, is perfect for a relaxing day by the sea. 

My favourite part of the island was 南门湾 (Nanmen Bay), In contrast to the sandy beach of Maluan Bay, Nanmen Bay offers a more rugged coastline with dramatic cliffs and a rich cultural history, including ancient temples and local folklore. Hearing the thunderous waves crashing into the large rockwalls coastline, occasionally the waves splash over the walls.

One of the highlights of our trip was the visit to 风动石 Fengdongshi Scenic Area, or the "Moving Rock." This unique geological formation is a massive boulder perched precariously on a cliff, seemingly defying gravity. The name "Moving Rock" comes from the local belief that the rock sways or moves with the wind, although it is so finely balanced that it remains stable despite its appearance. The site offers stunning views of the surrounding sea and cliffs, and it is a popular spot for both tourists and locals. 

We concluded our 2nd day with a climb to the top of a hill, where we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the city and coast. The view was breathtaking, offering a sweeping vista of the island's diverse landscapes, from its lush greenery to the expansive ocean. The climb was a perfect way to end the trip, providing a peaceful moment to reflect on the island's natural beauty.

As we prepared to leave for Fuzhou the next day, we received a notification that our high-speed train had been cancelled due to flooding across the region. The news meant there were no trains available, forcing us to adjust our plans and extend our stay on the island by another day. We hoped the floods would subside soon, allowing us to continue our journey.

As we spend the extra day relaxing around the coastal area at Nanmen Bay, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of connection to this beautiful island and its landscapes. The experience of navigating through nature's unpredictability and the island's welcoming embrace made Dongshan Island a memorable part of our journey.

The bed is so comfy here!

Zhangzhou (22 to 26 July) – 漳州古城 (Zhangzhou City)

After an enriching two weeks of travel, we set our sights on our next destination: 漳州 (Zhangzhou). Departing from the serene 云水谣, we made our way to the local bus stop, hoping to catch a connecting bus to Zhangzhou. However, our plans took an unexpected turn when the connecting bus at 南靖县 failed to arrive, leaving us stranded under the sweltering midday sun. Rather than wait indefinitely, we decided to book a cab that would take us directly to our hotel in Zhangzhou.

Upon arrival at 印象居酒店 (Impression Residence Hotel), our luck seemed to turn around. We were delighted to receive a complimentary upgrade to a mini-suite, complete with a cozy living room. The spacious and comfortable setup was exactly what we needed for this slower-paced leg of our journey. After the whirlwind adventures in Xiamen and Yunshuiyao, Zhangzhou became our haven for rest and rejuvenation.

漳州 is a city steeped in history, with roots tracing back more than 1,300 years. Known for its flourishing agriculture and rich cultural heritage, the city effortlessly blends ancient traditions with modern development. Our focus during this visit was the charming 漳州古城 (Zhangzhou Old Town), a place where history seems to whisper from every cobblestone and red brick wall.

As we wandered through the narrow streets of the ancient town, we felt as though we had stepped back in time. The cobblestone lanes were lined with beautifully preserved buildings in the classic Southern Fujian architectural style. Their distinctive red brick walls, elaborately carved wooden doors, and gracefully tiled roofs reflected the craftsmanship of the Ming and Qing dynasties. These historic structures housed an eclectic mix of artisan workshops, quaint cafes, and boutique shops, adding a vibrant energy to the old town’s timeless charm. Every turn revealed a piece of Zhangzhou’s past, and we found ourselves captivated by the stories hidden within its architecture.

On our first evening, we stumbled upon an unexpected delight—a traditional puppet show performed in front of a local temple. It was a rare and nostalgic sight, as this centuries-old art form has nearly vanished in Singapore. We paused to watch, enthralled by the skillful puppeteers and the lively expressions of their delicate creations. The performance added a magical touch to our day, connecting us with Zhangzhou’s rich cultural tapestry.

Food, as always, was a highlight of our journey. Zhangzhou’s cuisine was both familiar and delightful, with flavors that resonated deeply with us as Singaporeans. We sampled local specialties like crispy fried carrot cake, chewy 麻糍 (mochi), and savory 卤面 (braised noodles). Each bite carried a comforting sense of home while offering a unique Zhangzhou twist.

One of the standout landmarks of the old town was the 漳州文庙 (Zhangzhou Confucian Temple). This beautifully preserved site, dedicated to Confucius, stood as a testament to the region’s enduring scholarly traditions. Its classical Chinese architecture, featuring intricately carved stone pillars and serene courtyards, exuded a quiet elegance. Wandering through its grounds, we admired the stone tablets and calligraphy, which offered glimpses into Zhangzhou’s historical reverence for learning and culture.

As our time in Zhangzhou drew to a close, the weather began to change dramatically. Typhoon Gamei, having just crossed Taiwan, was heading toward northern Fujian Province, with Fuzhou and Putian bracing for its impact. While Zhangzhou, located in southern Fujian, lay outside the typhoon’s direct path, we still felt the effects of its powerful winds and relentless rain. This unexpected development added a tinge of concern about our next destination—东山岛 (Dongshan Island), located at the southernmost tip of the province. However, we reassured ourselves that being on the edge of the typhoon’s radius would likely make it safe to proceed with our plans.

Overall, our time in Zhangzhou was a much-needed respite. The slow pace allowed us to rest well and appreciate the city’s historical and cultural treasures, leaving us recharged for the adventures to come.

We rest and learn to appreciate Tea Culture in Zhangzhou.