Fuzhou (4 August 2024) - 烟台山, 爱情岛, 夜游闽江

Our trip in Fuzhou continued with a visit to 烟台山 (Yantai Mountain). People often compare it to Xiamen’s famous Gulangyu Island, but Yantai Mountain has its own unique charm. It’s smaller and quieter, but full of history. 

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, after the Treaty of Nanjing, Fuzhou became one of China’s treaty ports. This brought foreign diplomats, traders, and their families to live in the city. They built embassies, churches, schools, and houses on Yantai Mountain. Many of these old buildings are still standing today, and their Western-style architecture—like Gothic and Victorian designs—looks beautiful against the traditional Chinese surroundings.

Walking through Yantai Mountain felt like stepping back in time. Even though the old embassy buildings were closed to the public, they were still fascinating to look at. Their grand walls and old designs made me wonder about the lives of the people who lived there long ago. It was quiet and peaceful, and even without going inside, we enjoyed the calm atmosphere and history of the place.

After Yantai Mountain, we headed to 爱情岛 (Love Island), a tiny island in the middle of the Min Jiang River. As its name suggests, it’s a romantic and relaxing place. Couples and visitors come here to enjoy its peaceful beauty. There are cute love-themed decorations, sculptures, and great spots to take photos or have a picnic.

One of the best parts of Love Island was a small café with outdoor seating. We sat there, enjoying our teabreak with food which we had bought from a local market earlier in the morning while looking out at the river. 

As the day ended, we took a night cruise on the Min Jiang River. This river has been very important to Fuzhou for hundreds of years, helping the city grow as a center for trade. Seeing the city from the water at night gave us a completely different view.

The cruise started with light snacks and a traditional tea ceremony onboard. This was a nice way to learn about Fujian Province’s famous tea culture. The ceremony was simple but meaningful.

As we sailed along the river, the buildings along the shore lit up with bright, colorful lights. Their reflections shimmered on the water, and music played along with the light show. It felt magical to see the mix of old history and modern life in Fuzhou.

Posing with the Famous Love Bear                      We cross the bridge to Love Island

Fuzhou (2 August 2024) - 上下行 (Shangxia Hang)

Fuzhou’s Shangxiahang is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods. It was once a busy place where merchants traded goods and travelers stopped to rest. This area grew during the late Ming and Qing dynasties, and it was known as the center of trade and business in Fuzhou. 

When I arrived, I expected to see a lively and bustling area filled with people, open shops, and lanterns glowing over the water. Online photos showed beautiful stone streets, cozy alleys, and little canals reflecting soft lights. It looked like a painting come to life.

But when I started exploring, the place felt much quieter than I imagined. Most of the shops were closed, and the streets were empty. It made me wonder if the area was being fixed up or redeveloped. 

Even though it was quiet, there was still a lot to enjoy. The narrow alleys, stone bridges, and small canals had a peaceful charm. It was easy to imagine how busy the area must have been long ago, with merchants selling goods, tea houses full of laughter, and artists showing off their crafts. Walking through the quiet streets, I could picture the life that once filled this place.

One of the highlights of my visit was the 永德会馆 (Yongde Guild Hall), an old building that has been carefully preserved. Built in the late Qing dynasty, the hall was established by merchants and craftsmen from Yongchun, a nearby county, as a meeting place for those doing business in Fuzhou. These guild halls were essential to the social and economic networks of the time, serving as spaces for trade discussions, community events, and a sense of home for those far from their own towns.

What made this visit special was that my grandfather’s hometown was from Yongchun. Standing in the Guild Hall, I couldn’t help but think of link between him and the fellow countrymen of that area.

Even though I was a little disappointed that Shangxiahang wasn’t as lively as I hoped, I still left feeling hopeful. This place has so much history and beauty, and I think it could become a wonderful spot for both locals and visitors. If the area is fixed up carefully, keeping its unique charm while adding new life, it will definitely be worth coming back to. I hope to visit again someday—when the lanterns are lit, the shops are open, and the water in the canals reflects both the past and the present.

We had a delicious Japanese meal at 上下行

Fuzhou (31 July 2024) - 马尾区，船政 (Fuzhou Shipyard Museum)

During our exploration of Fuzhou, we decided to delve deeper into the city’s rich maritime history by visiting the 船政 (Fuzhou Shipyard) at 马尾坡. This site is of great historical significance, as it marks the birthplace of the country's modern shipbuilding industry.

The Fuzhou Shipyard, also known as the Fuzhou Arsenal, was established in 1866 during the late Qing Dynasty under the leadership of Zuo Zongtang, a prominent statesman and military leader. The shipyard was part of the broader Self-Strengthening Movement, a series of initiatives aimed at modernizing China's military and industrial capabilities in response to the growing threats posed by Western powers.

Located in the Mawei District along the Min Jiang River, the shipyard was strategically positioned to take advantage of Fuzhou’s natural resources and its access to the sea. It quickly became one of the most advanced shipbuilding facilities in Asia, producing a fleet of steam-powered ships that marked China's entry into modern naval warfare. The shipyard also played a crucial role in training naval officers and shipbuilders, laying the foundation for China's modern navy.

Our journey to the 马尾坡 took about an hour by bus, offering a scenic route along the Min Jiang River. The river's serene beauty provided a stark contrast to the industrial history we were about to uncover. As we approached the shipyard, the landscape changed, with old warehouses and docks coming into view, remnants of a bygone era that had been carefully preserved.

The museum is housed within the original shipyard, with the old warehouses along the docks converted into exhibition spaces. Walking through these spaces, it was easy to imagine the bustling activity that once filled the shipyard, with workers and engineers laboring to build ships that would change the course of Chinese history.

The exhibits are thoughtfully curated, showcasing a range of artifacts, models, and documents that tell the story of the shipyard’s founding, its role in the Self-Strengthening Movement, and its impact on China's maritime history.

We saw a real warship here! - but no photos allowed =(