Saturday, August 3, 2024

Fuzhou (2 August 2024) - 上下行 (Shangxia Hang)

Fuzhou’s Shangxiahang is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods. It was once a busy place where merchants traded goods and travelers stopped to rest. This area grew during the late Ming and Qing dynasties, and it was known as the center of trade and business in Fuzhou. 

When I arrived, I expected to see a lively and bustling area filled with people, open shops, and lanterns glowing over the water. Online photos showed beautiful stone streets, cozy alleys, and little canals reflecting soft lights. It looked like a painting come to life.

But when I started exploring, the place felt much quieter than I imagined. Most of the shops were closed, and the streets were empty. It made me wonder if the area was being fixed up or redeveloped. 

Even though it was quiet, there was still a lot to enjoy. The narrow alleys, stone bridges, and small canals had a peaceful charm. It was easy to imagine how busy the area must have been long ago, with merchants selling goods, tea houses full of laughter, and artists showing off their crafts. Walking through the quiet streets, I could picture the life that once filled this place.


One of the highlights of my visit was the 永德会馆 (Yongde Guild Hall), an old building that has been carefully preserved. Built in the late Qing dynasty, the hall was established by merchants and craftsmen from Yongchun, a nearby county, as a meeting place for those doing business in Fuzhou. These guild halls were essential to the social and economic networks of the time, serving as spaces for trade discussions, community events, and a sense of home for those far from their own towns.

What made this visit special was that my grandfather’s hometown was from Yongchun. Standing in the Guild Hall, I couldn’t help but think of link between him and the fellow countrymen of that area.



Even though I was a little disappointed that Shangxiahang wasn’t as lively as I hoped, I still left feeling hopeful. This place has so much history and beauty, and I think it could become a wonderful spot for both locals and visitors. If the area is fixed up carefully, keeping its unique charm while adding new life, it will definitely be worth coming back to. I hope to visit again someday—when the lanterns are lit, the shops are open, and the water in the canals reflects both the past and the present.



We had a delicious Japanese meal at 上下行




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