We checked out of our hotel and headed to the Long Distance Bus Station at 梧村汽车站 (Wu Chun Bus Station). Our next destination was 南靖土楼 (Nanjing Tulou), specifically the 云水谣 (Yunshuiyao) district - a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its stunning tulou architecture and rich cultural heritage. This leg of our journey was a much-anticipated highlight, and we embarked with excitement and curiosity.
After being assigned a minivan, we settled in for the 2.5-hour journey to Yunshuiyao. The drive took us through lush, mountainous regions. As we approached 云水谣, the countryside unfolded like a dream. It was as though we had stepped into a timeless world, where life moved at a gentler pace and the air was fresh and invigorating—a stark contrast to the bustling cityscape of Xiamen.
Upon arrival, we purchased our tickets at the counter (90RMB) each, and then proceed to embarked on a 20-minute walk to our accommodation: 茶人小站3福谦楼1906土楼民宿 (Cha Ren Xiao Zhan 3 Fu Qian Lou 1906 Tulou B&B). Nestled deep within the Yunshuiyao district, this historic tulou, constructed in 1906, offered a charming retreat away from the main tourist crowds. The structure's circular design, built from packed earth, wood, and stone, radiated rustic elegance. Its central courtyard served as a tranquil communal space, inviting guests to unwind and soak in the atmosphere. We were immediately wowed by the building. Check-in was relatively smooth and we got the keys to our room in minutes. Room was rather basic with just the necessary amenities. But I guess that’s to be expected given the age of the building. Staying here gave us a rare glimpse into the living history and architectural brilliance of the Hakka people, who have thrived in these unique earthen buildings for centuries.
After a brief wash up, we started exploring the village. We walked along the canal and arrived at a group of small restaurants under two 600-year old banyan trees. We decided to have our lunch at one of the restaurants. They had tables laid out below the banyan tress, providing shelters from the scorching sun. Lunch was a simple affair. We rejected the staff recommendation of a “四菜一汤“ ， as it would have been too much for the two of us. Instead we ordered a 梅菜扣肉， 煎蛋and a stir fry vegetables. We were glad that we limit ourself with the orders. The portion were huge and we had difficulties finishing all the dishes. The vegetables, accordingly to the staff, were freshly plucked from the backyard this morning. After lunch, we sat around and enjoyed the free tea provided by the restaurant. We spend about two hours people watching and enjoying the tea.
Most people would only make this a day trip and rush through the attractions. As we will be spending 3 days two night here, we decided to take things slowly. After lunch, we made our way to the first attraction, 怀远楼。云水谣 is famed for two iconic tulous: 怀远楼 (Huaiyuan Lou) and 和贵楼 (Hegui Lou).
怀远楼 (Huaiyuan Lou):
Built in 1909, this circular tulou is among the most well-preserved in the region. Its elegant design spans four floors, with intricately carved doors and sturdy wooden beams reflecting a masterful blend of artistry and function. However, we found ourselves slightly disappointed by the over-commercialization of 怀远楼. The ground floor, which used to be the kitchens for the Hakka families staying here, have been converted into small shops selling local products, tea leaves and souvenirs for the tourists. There was also an additional fee of 10RMB for going up to the upper floors. The ground floor was filled with tourists and we walked two rounds before deciding that we had enough. We exit the building and decided to explore the rest of the village instead
We walked along the river admiring the greenery around and stumble across this café/homestay “三秋“ next to the river. We spend the rest of the day at the café, enjoying our coffee while admiring the scenery from the window of the café.
When we went back to our hotel at night, we were greeted by the most awesome sight. Most of the lights were turned off and the owner had lighted the lanterns. The whole sight look like a scene out of the animation “大鱼海棠’. We again spend the next 15 mins taking photos from various angle. This was definitely the highlight of the day.
和贵楼 (Hegui Lou):
The next morning, after a late breakfast at one of the local shops, we visited the second attraction, the 和贵楼. Built in 1732, 和贵楼 is one of the oldest in the area. Unlike 怀远楼， 和贵楼is square in shape. One interesting fact about the building is that the building is actually build on a swamp. How the Hakkas managed to achieve remains a wonder to many. The ground floor was also filled with shops selling local products and souvenirs. But maybe because it was bigger in size, it did not feel as congested as 怀远楼。 We took our time exploring the building and also spend some time admiring the central hall/shrine, which also double up as a classroom during the olden days.
We spend the rest of the days visiting some of the smaller tulous, some of which have been converted into museum. At night we decided to return back to the restaurant under the banyan trees for our dinner. Dinner was simple but delicious. After dinner, we took a walk around the village. Crudos to the management of the site, they had actually arranged for various free performances around the village. We had a wonderful time exploring the village and enjoying the performances. We ended the night and also our visit to the village with a light show at the 和贵楼.
Beyond its iconic tulous, the charm of 云水谣 lies in its idyllic streams and rivers, which meander gracefully through the village. These waterways, shaded by ancient trees and lined with stone pathways, create a tranquil atmosphere that invites peaceful strolls and quiet reflection. The soft murmur of flowing water, combined with the beauty of the natural surroundings, made Yunshuiyao feel like a sanctuary—a picturesque haven where time seemed to stand still.
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